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Tips to Avoid the Next Pet Food Recall

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Last year turned out to be the worst in history for pet food recalls.  While there is no way to be 100% certain that a pet food is not tainted or will be recalled, there are some important things to look for – and to avoid when selecting your dog’s or cat’s food - to greatly improve your odds in purchasing a healthy, safe pet food. 

Judging the safety or the nutritional value of a pet food starts by ignoring the advertising, the price of the pet food, and ignoring the front of the bag.  The real signs to the safety of a dog food or cat food lie on the back or side of the bag or can in the ‘Ingredient Listing’.  Regardless of what marketing terms (‘choice’, ‘premium’, and so on) are on the front of the bag or can of pet food, a pet owner cannot determine the quality or how safe the food is unless they look at the ingredients.  With dry foods there can be 90 different ingredients (or more), with canned foods there can be 50 or more different ingredients.  But don’t panic…you don’t have to understand hundreds of different pet food ingredients!  You just need to be aware of a few key ingredients…pet food ingredients that you do NOT want to see in a dog food or cat food (or treats). 

‘Wheat Gluten’, ‘Corn Gluten’, or ‘Rice Gluten’.  These three ingredients were the bad boy pet food ingredients of 2007.  Tainted glutens were found to be the cause of thousands of dogs and cats becoming ill and dying.  It is not that glutens themselves are toxic to pets – these ingredients have been used in pet foods for years.  The problem was the source or manufacturer of the glutens – imported from countries with far less quality standards than in the US.  (The majority of glutens used in the US pet foods are from imported sources.)  These imported glutens contained added chemicals that caused crystals to form in the kidneys of dogs and cats. 

Not only is it important to avoid dog foods and cat foods (and dog and cat treats) that contain glutens because of the possibility of dangerous added chemicals, it is important because they add no real quality nutrition to the food.  Glutens are used as a thickener AND as a source of protein in pet food.  Adult maintenance dog foods must provide a minimum of 18% protein, adult maintenance cat foods must provide a minimum of 26% protein.  If the meat source of the pet food does not provide enough protein, glutens are often added to boost the protein level of the pet food.  The best nutrition for your pet comes from a meat protein pet food not from a gluten protein.  Avoid dog foods and cat foods (and treats) that contain ‘corn gluten’, ‘wheat gluten’, or ‘soy gluten’.    

‘By Products’.  By-products have never been the cause of a pet food recall, but they are definitely ingredients you want to avoid feeding your pet.  To give you an understanding of by-products, I’d like to compare this pet food ingredient to pies – you know, the dessert!  How many different types of pies you can think of?  There are apple pies, cherry pies, chocolate pies, meringue pies, meat pies, mud pies, pie in math, cow pies (yuck!) – I think you get my point.  Now imagine if you purchased yourself a prepared ravioli dinner at the grocery and you looked at the ingredients and you see ‘pie’ listed as the first ingredient in your dinner.  Hmmm, pie in ravioli – what kind of pie?  You wouldn’t know if it was apple pie or mud pie or even cow pie.  All you would know is that your dinner contained ‘pie’.  Considering ‘pie’ could be anything from apple pie to cow pie – my guess is that you wouldn’t be having ravioli for dinner.  Same thing with by-products in pet food.

AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials – the organization responsible for all animal feed manufacturing rules and regulations) defines by-products as “meat by-products is the non-rendered, clean parts, other than meat, derived from slaughtered mammals.  It includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents.  It does not include hair, horns, teeth, and hoofs.  It shall be suitable for use in animal food.  If it bears name descriptive of its kind, it must correspond thereto.”

So, with respect to pet food – a by-product is a catch-all ingredient name.  All left over meat materials from the human food industry are clumped into one ingredient name – by-product.  There is NO certainty of what you are feeding – one batch of pet food might be more intestine by-products while the next batch of pet food might be more liver or bone by-products.  There is NO way of knowing what is actually contained in the pet food ingredient by-product (the pet food manufacturers themselves couldn’t tell you exactly).  Avoid dog foods and cat foods (and treats) that contain By-products of any kind…Chicken By-Products, Beef By-Products, Chicken By-Product Meal, Beef By-Product Meal, and so forth.

‘Meat Meal’, ‘Meat and Bone Meal’, or ‘Animal Digest’.  These three ingredients are similar to by-products.  AAFCO defines Meat and Bone Meal as “the rendered product from mammal tissues, including bone, exclusive of any added blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents, except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably to good processing practices.”  Again, a catch all ingredient name for the left-over parts of animals used for human food.  No consistency to what is contained in these ingredients (all three of these pet food ingredient definitions are similar) – no way of knowing what is actually in your pet’s food.  Avoid dog foods, cat foods, and dog and cat treats that contain ‘meat meal’, ‘meat and bone meal’, or ‘animal digest’. 

‘Animal Fat’.  In 2002 the FDA tested many different brands of dog food (cat food was not tested) for the presence of the drug pentobarbital.  Many brands of dog food tested positive to contain the drug.  Pentobarbital is the drug used to euthanize dogs, cats, cattle, and horses. 

How can the drug that is used to euthanize animals be found in pet food?  The answer – euthanized animals are rendered (cooked) and the end ingredients are placed in pet food.  It has long been rumored that euthanized dogs and cats (from animal shelters and veterinarian offices) is the major source of the pentobarbital in pet food.  However no one has been able to prove or disprove this rumor to date.  The FDA/CVM (Center for Veterinary Management) developed testing methods on two separate occasions to determine the species source of the drug.  No results have ever been determined.  The pet food manufacturers adamantly deny they use rendered dogs or cats – but NO clinical evidence has ever been released to confirm the pentobarbital is from euthanized cattle and horses in pet food as they claim. 

However, the one thing the FDA/CVM has determined through their testing is the pet food ingredient ‘animal fat’ is the most common ingredient to contain pentobarbital.  In other words, if you are feeding a dog food or cat food (or treats) with the ingredient ‘animal fat’ in the ingredient listing – you are (more than likely) feeding your pet euthanized animals.  Not every batch of pet food tested that contained the ingredient ‘animal fat’ has proved to contain pentobarbital – but why would any pet owner want to take the chance?  Avoid dog foods, cat foods, and dog and cat treats that contain the ingredient ‘animal fat’. 

‘BHA’, ‘BHT’, ‘TBHQ’, and ‘Ethoxyquin’.  These pet food ingredients are chemical preservatives and you might have to look through the entire ingredient list to find them.  It is worth the look because there is plenty of clinical evidence to associate all four of these chemical preservatives with cancer and tumors (simply do a Google search on any one of these chemicals).  All four of these chemical preservatives are rarely used to preserve human food and if so, are used in quantities far less than what is allowed in pet food.  Avoid any dog food, cat food, or dog and cat treat that contains ‘BHA’, ‘BHT’, ‘TBHQ’, and ‘Ethoxyquin’ on the label. 

‘Corn’, ‘Wheat’, ‘Soy’.  While there is no scientific evidence that proves these ingredients are dangerous to pets – they are potentially dangerous ingredients associated with recalls in the past (1995, 1999, and 2005).  These grains are highly prone to a deadly mold (aflatoxin).  It is suggested (by AAFCO) that all pet food manufacturers test grains for the mold, but as recalls of the past have proven – that doesn’t always happen.  I do not think these ingredients are as risky as others mentioned above, but they are ingredients I avoid for my own pets.


There is more to selecting a true healthy pet food for your dog or cat than avoiding the above mentioned ingredients.  This is just a start - based on pet food history, AAFCO ingredient definitions, science and opinion of many pet food experts including myself.  There are many quality pet foods available that do NOT use the above ingredients and that add health promoting ingredients to their foods and treats.  Continue to learn as much as you can about what you are feeding your pet and ALWAYS read the labels!

 

Why the 'Best By' Date Label on Pet Foods Is So Important

by Susan Thixton (see all articles by this author)


(NaturalNews) A recent article posted on The Consumerist website brings up a very good point (and lesson) that pet owners should take note of. The article comes from a pet owner whose Yorkie became ill, and after a couple of days in the vet's office, the owner looked at her Eukanuba canned food and realized it had expired 3 years ago. When she checked the cupboard she discovered several other cans of dog food –- all recently purchased at PetCo –- had expiration dates from 2004.

What happened to this pet owner (and pet) can easily happen to anyone. How many times have you purchased something and never looked at the expiration date?

With pet food (somewhere on the can or bag, usually on the side or back of the bag) is the 'Best By' date. With most of the manufacturers that I have spoken with, this date does Not mean the food is officially expired –- it just means that the food does not provide the nutrition as stated in the Guaranteed Analysis. The 'best' nutrition for your pet has expired (but again in most cases, per what the manufacturers tell me, the food is still 'good').

Shelf life is one of the questions I ask manufacturers about and provide in Petsumer Report. It varies greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer. The shelf life of dry pet foods can vary from 4 months to 3 years –- canned and/or pouched products vary from 1 year to 5 years. Treats usually have the same shelf life as the manufacturer's dry food –- but just to keep things confusing, that can vary too. The 'Best By' date provided on the food does Not tell you how old the product is, it does Not tell you when the food was manufactured. It only tells you the date that particular manufacturer has determined the food no longer provides the pet with the proper nutrition. While some ingredients in the food might still provide adequate nutrition, other ingredients have faded over time.

All pet foods that are naturally preserved begin to lose their nutritional value almost immediately after they are made. This is the drawback to natural preservatives (but the Only drawback is you Only want naturally preserved pet foods and treats for your pet). So the challenge is to find a pet food that is very fresh. Our friends at AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials), rule makers of the pet food industry, have made that a little difficult for pet owners -- adding to the challenge. Pet food manufacturers are not required to put the date the pet food was manufactured on the bag or can –- only the date that particular manufacturer has determined the food no longer is 'best'. As I stated above, it varies a great deal from product to product, manufacturer to manufacturer.

So here's what you can do to assure your pet is eating only fresh food, providing the best that product offers...

Call the manufacturer and ask them what the shelf life is for their dry foods and/or canned foods. Let's say ABC Pet Food Company tells you that the shelf life of their Premium ABC dry foods is 18 months and their Premium ABC canned/pouched foods is 2 years. With that information you then look at the 'Best By' date on the product. As an example, if the best by date on the dry dog food you are considering says June 2008, knowing that ABC told you 18 months for dry food, you would know that the food was made in January of 2007. If today's date was October 20, 2007 (for example), this would tell you this particular bag of ABC dry dog food is 10 months old.

With a canned food, the ABC canned cat food best by date is also June 2008. This would tell you that this can was made in June 2006 and thus it would be 14 months old in October 2007.

Most of the time, when pet owners look at the 'best by' date and they see June 2008, they think 'this is good! This food still has 8 months until it expires'. I was guilty of this until I learned the differences too. But the bigger picture needs to be explained.

Using my above examples, I would Not purchase a dry dog or cat food that was already 10 months old. Ideally, dry foods should be four months or less old and you should use them within a two month time frame. Again, with any naturally preserved dry product, the nutritional value starts to deteriorate almost immediately. Fresh is best. I would recommend purchasing and using the food within six months of manufacturing. Storing the food in an air tight container will help keep the food fresher after opening the bag, providing your pet with more quality nutrition. With canned products it's a different ballgame. You definitely want to purchase and use the food before the best by date expires, but the quality of the nutrition is protected by the canning process. Any unused opened can must be covered and stored in the refrigerator and used within a couple of days.

Call your pet food's manufacturer and ask them the shelf life of dry foods and canned foods. I know it's a chore, just one more thing you have to do and look out for, but it is very important. You want what you pay for -- quality nutrition for your pet -- and a fresh product will provide that (of course you have to pay attention to ingredients too, but that is a whole different subject). Get yourself into the habit of looking at the 'Best By' date before you purchase the pet food and/or treat. Your effort will not only provide your pet with better nutrition -- getting yourself into the habit of looking at the expiration date could just save you from an experience similar to the pet owner mentioned in the beginning of this article... and a sick pet.

 

About the author

Susan Thixton is internationally recognized as the pet food expert helping pet owners understand how to find the safest and healthiest dog and cat foods and treats. She's been called courageous, perseverant, even a "pet lovers Savior" for her 16 year study of pet food.
Susan Thixton is the author of hundreds of pet industry articles and the 2006 released book Truth About Pet Food (currently being updated for a second edition). She is the publisher of the ONLY pet product consumer magazine Petsumer Report. And is a frequent speaker and radio guest all over the U.S. and Canada with more than 70 appearances in the last 2 years.
 
 

Secrets To Comparing Pet Food Prices

I recently received an email asking my opinion about a couple of different types of pet foods – what I thought about the quality of the foods.  Both of the pet foods he asked about (which he was feeding his ‘family’) were what I considered to be very inferior foods.  I informed him of this and his response was that they probably couldn’t afford a better food.

While I understand that better quality dog and cat foods can be two or even three times more expensive than some of the cheaper brands, folks who think they can’t afford it, unfortunately, will ‘pay’ in the end.  When a pet is sick with kidney or liver disease, when a pet must be treated for skin irritations and ear infections – vet bills to ‘fix’ the health concern cost pet owners far more than the ‘few cents’ a meal to feed them quality nutrition.  And I’m often questioned about this ‘few cents a meal’ theory – but before you question me too, let me explain. 

Many pet owners suffer ‘sticker shock’ when considering purchasing a better quality food.  They look at the price tag and gasp when considering how fast Fido or Fluffy eats that bag of food.  What they don’t know is that with better quality pet foods, you don’t feed as much – cheap foods have cheap ‘filler’ ingredients that do not satisfy the nutritional needs of the pet, thus they eat A LOT more attempting to get the nutrition that their body is telling them they need.  Better quality foods/ingredients provide the animal with quality nutrition and they eat on average 1/3 less.

So let’s break it down to cost per meal…
Let’s say your pet currently eats 1 cup of food per day.  A 20 pound bag of food will provide you with about 50 servings.  If the food costs you $15.00 for a 20 pound bag – that equals about .30 per meal. 

Now with a good quality pet food – feeding about 1/3 less – a 20 pound bag will provide you about 80 servings.  If the better food costs $30.00 for a 20 pound bag – that breaks down to a little less than .38 cents a meal. 

So even though the price tag of the food reads to be twice as expensive – it’s actually far from the truth.  Using the above example, at .30 cents per meal, two meals a day, in one month you are spending around $18.00 per month to feed a pet with the inferior food.  With the apparent twice as expensive higher quality pet food, at .38 cents per meal, two meals a day, in one month you are spending around $22.80 per month.  Less than $5.00 per month difference that can save you thousands of dollars in vet bills and add years to their life.  You must look at the cost per meal to completely give the price of the food consideration.

Here is what has happened to us…for years and years we’ve watched the television commercials of pet food.  They emphasize the words ‘for your pet’s health’ or ‘choice’.  We’ve trusted them and we’ve followed their directions to feed our pet 2 or 3 cups of food per day.  What we didn’t know was that those recommended 2 or 3 cups of food was necessary because the pet food contained cheap inferior nutrition sources like by-products, meat and bone meal, and grains. 

So, it has become our habit to feed more – which they do need more with inferior ingredients.  Then someone like myself comes along and tells you how horrible ingredients like by-products and meat and bone meal are – and you learn that grains such as corn, wheat, and soy are inferior – and since this recent pet food recall, you learn that chemicals can actually be added to variations of these grains (glutens)…so then you look over your options at the pet store or online.  And you think in terms of how much per ‘bag’ of food.  After all, you’ve probably tried several different types of pet food in the past – maybe even one or two that cost a little more than the cheap brands – and you still ended up feeding the same 2 or 3 cups of food a day.  Naturally, you look at the $30.00 for a 20 pound bag of pet food and gasp at the cost – you are thinking just the way they want you to think…in terms of the cost of the bag, not the cost of the serving. 

The determining factor for your choice of pet food should not be cost or advertising.  You must look at and understand those first five ingredients.  Of course there is much more involved than the first five ingredients, but in my research…if the first five ingredients of a pet food are good, so are the rest of the ingredients.  If a pet food manufacturer cares enough to make the first five ingredients quality – which is the majority of the food…they care enough to make all of the ingredients quality.  Don’t be mislead into any comfort zone of a pet food manufacturers advertising…do your homework and read and understand at least the first five ingredients of your pet’s food.
 
With better, more nutritious pet foods – they do NOT need as much as with the cheaper foods.  Don’t let the old habit of feeding more sway you when you switch to a more nutritious pet food – again, with more quality ingredients they just don’t need as much food as with inferior ingredients.  If you switch your pet to a quality pet food and continue to feed the same amount as the lesser quality food you were feeding – your pet will gain weight. 

The daily amount of food our pets require depends on many things such as activity level, age, breeding animals, or neutered animals.  As an example, my 100 pound German Shepherd only eats two cups of food per day; 1 cup AM, 1 cup PM.  My little guy (8 pound Papillion eats about 1/3 cup a day.  Both dogs are active.  However, my little guy is young and is fairly high energy level.  My big guy is 12 years old and much more sedate.  Considering his little size, the small dog eats far more for his size than the big dog.  His energy and activity level requires it.

My cat on the other hand free feeds – he has access to a full bowl of food at all times and eats when he wants.  He has never been an over eater and this works well for him.  I could never do the same with my dogs.

So serving size for your pet is something you will need to experiment with.  If your dog or cat has no ‘figure’ – shows no waist when looking at them from above – chances are they need to lose a few pounds.  Cut back the serving size.  If you can visibly see ribs – they probably need to gain a couple of pounds and you need to slightly increase the serving size.  Please note too that a cup of food a day at 2 years old will more than likely be too much food when they are a little older.  Keep a constant monitoring eye on them - a healthy weight is a healthier pet.

And please don’t just look at the cost of the bag of food, look at (at least) the first five ingredients and consider the cost of the serving.

Wishing you and your pets good health,
 

Susan Thixton
Truth About Pet Food
Petsumer Report
www.TruthAboutPetFood.com

P.S.  Please share this message with as many pet owners as you can.  I am in constant need of your help in educating. 

   

Urgent Press Release For Dog Owners:

 

You're about to discover the terrifying-truth about commercial dog food that is linked to the deaths of thousands of dogs across the US every single day.

Many world-famous Doctors of Veterinary Medicine and published Dog Care Experts universally agree any dog that eats commercial dog food is at a much higher risk of dying prematurely and by the time symptoms are noticeable, it's often too late to prevent an agonizing death except by lethal injection.

See their shocking, research-supported claims in this report.

Also in this report, I show you a simple solution proven to increase the lifespan of your dog by up to 134% and save you up to $10,000.

To discover these amazing secrets just continue reading and your reward is a super-healthy, incredibly-happy dog that stays by-your-side for up to 8.3-years longer than statistically predicted.
 


 
 

 

 
Powered by LIVEperson

From the PC of Andrew Lewis,
Dog Care Expert

Tuesday, 9:30 am

Dear Friend,

f you don't make drastic but simple changes to the way you feed your dog, beginning today......

... your dog is at an alarmingly high-risk of suffering an early and painful death!

............

How do I know?

My dog died young, only 4-years old... he was incredibly healthy, exercised daily and was very happy.

Or so I thought.

But I later discovered I had poisoned him, because I believed the lies told to me by the dog food companies I bought his food from, the very same companies you buy from... and those same lies are still told to you every-single-day.

My dog is gone...

Yet, it's not too late for you no matter what age your dog is, but only if you discover what you must do and act now, ... the clock started ticking long before you arrived at this page, so I beg you --

Pay Close Attention - today, I'm going to show you why the commercial dog food you trust may be killing your dog and step-by-step what you must do to prevent it.

My team has researched commercially available dog food thoroughly and very FEW brands are worthy of your dog... 'well-known' doesn't equal 'healthy'.

I recommend you also get this free mini-course I've prepared for you because you should start making changes to the way you feed and care for your dog beginning today... don't make the mistake of waiting too long before you act!

Let's continue with this critical information...

"Commercial Dog Food is Killing Your Dog,
Hear What The Experts Have to Say..."

The widespread disease and death of dogs from nutritionally inadequate and poison-laden commercial dog food is no secret in the world of vets and dog experts....

"Experts 'Come-Forward' About Commercial Dog Food Scandal.."

Leading dog-health author, Ann N. Martin, sums up the state of commercial dog food in a single sentence..

"Most commercial pet foods are garbage"

==========================

World-famous vet and dog-care author Alfred Plechner, says the poor nutritional properties of commercial dog food inevitably lead to disease..

"Because many commercial foods are woefully deficient in key nutrients, the long term effect of feeding such foods makes the dog hypersensitive to its environment. . . .

It's a dinosaur effect. [Dogs] are being programmed for disaster, for extinction.

Many of them are biochemical cripples with defective adrenal glands unable to manufacture adequate cortisol, a hormone vital for health and resistance to disease."

==========================

Debra Lynn Dadd, author of 'Home Safe Home' says commerical dog food company claims their product is a complete and healthy meal are false..

"Many pet foods claim to be "100% nutritionally complete and balanced." This claim legally can be made and printed on commercial products based on information studies using isolated nutrients and not whole foods

.. these tests ignore important nutritional issues and give ... consumers a false sense of knowledge and security.

There are more than forty known, essential nutrients... thus, making sure a food contains appropriate amounts of only a dozen of these nutrients can't possibly assure that a food is "complete."

WARNING: If you continue to feed your dog commercial dog food, death-by-disease is practically guaranteed! You must find an alternative and it doesn't have to mean spending more money.

So if you love your dog, drop everything, bolt the door and take the phone of the hook because this story is the 'wake-up call' that saves the life of your own beloved canine .

I pray you have not seen the following symptoms in your own dog..

"The Death of Your Dog Looks Like This.."

Slowly, I began to notice something unusual about Noble. He didn't have the same bounce to his step that he was famous for. At times he even seemed reluctant to go for our regular exercise, which was always the highlight of his day.

I dismissed it as him feeling a bit off or maybe a touch of laziness... but it didn't pass, in fact it got worse and then worse still.

I eventually took him to the local vet and was told his kidneys were failing and soon, he would be dead.

DEAD!

As in gone..... forever!.

"But, but... he's so young, so strong, so happy... I don't understand, how could this be?"

Devastated, with tears welled in my eyes, I chocked back the urge to sob and listened for my vet's reply...

"The Next Words From My Vet's Mouth Flooded Me With Rage! He Said, 'Andrew...."

I'm usually a calm and relaxed guy... it takes a lot to 'shake my tree' but the facts my vet shared with me that day made me tremble with anger and resentment.

He said..

"Andrew, I'm very sorry to tell you but Noble is dying.

"The preservatives found in the commercial dog food you feed him have destroyed his kidneys.

"He will be dead in 3 weeks, maybe 4 and it's too late to prevent it.

"You see, the major dog food companies fill their precessed food with preservatives to increase it's shelf life and maximize their profits.

"They know these preservatives kill millions of pets every single year but without them, their profits would not be as large... and that is the bottom line..

"Andrew, Noble is dying for the sake of fattening company profits!".

[I later discovered through my own research, preservatives are not the only reason dog food kills dogs, more on that soon... you'll be outraged!]

"Rage, Pain, Despair?
What Would You Feel If Your Dog Was Murdered?"

For a moment my mind was completely blank... and then from a dark place within me, rose a violent tempest of anger and resentment.

Rapidly it forced its way to the top of my consciousness until, almost involuntarily, my head snapped back and I bellowed a painful and frustrated wail... but alas, I was powerless to save the life of my best-friend..

'Noble'

R.I.P.

Noble passed away in my arms from lethal injection at 3:46pm on a Wednesday afternoon - the saddest day of my life.

An innocent victim of dog-food poisoning.

PLEASE, don't let this tragic story become your own!

You should never have to stand over the dead & diseased body of your own sweet dog because companies spending millions of dollars each year to get your trust, are simultaneously taking your money and selling you poison, knowingly!

I've spent the past 3 years researching the truth about commercial dog food and proper canine health and nutrition.

This is the terrifying truth I discovered...

"Commercial Dog Food is Killing Your Dog Because.."

My own vet said commercial dog food killed my dog, Noble, because preservatives it contains caused his kidneys to fail.

In fact, through my own research I discovered dog food contains at least 6 deadly chemicals that have been banned from human foods because they cause:

  • Kidney cancer
  • Bladder cancer
  • Skin cancer
  • Stomach cancer
  • Spleen cancer
  • Leukemia
  • Liver dysfunction
  • Major organ failure
  • Immune system collapse
  • Severe allergic reactions
  • Birth Defects
  • Blindness
  • Chronic Diarrhea
  • Hair Loss and
  • Behavior problems, including increased aggressiveness --> very dangerous if your dog is around children

And if you think, like I did, that buying foods labeled as chemical and preservative free makes them safe, think again... it's just more lies!

'Chemical and Preservative Free' Labeling a Lie. Experts Expose Truth..

Doctor of Veterinary Medicine and author, Henry Pasternak, rips back the veil of lies about dog food labeling..

"Many pet foods advertised as "preservative-free" do, in fact, contain preservatives.

..manufacturers don't have to list preservatives that they themselves did not add.

Many preservatives make their way into pet food at rendering plants before the meat is even sent to the manufacturer. An analysis of several pet foods labeled "chemical free" or "all natural ingredients" found synthetic antioxidants in all samples."

===============================

Henry Pasternak also reveals..

"Although you won't see it on the label, since it is often added at the rendering plant and not by the manufacturer, ethoxyquin (EQ) is used to preserve most dry pet food.

EQ is the most powerful of all preservatives and may be the most toxic.

The use of EQ is ... permitted in pet food.

...factory workers exposed to it exhibited side effects similar to those of agent orange:

  • a dramatic rise in liver or kidney damage,
  • cancerous skin lesions,
  • hair loss,
  • blindness,
  • leukemia,
  • fetal abnormalities, and
  • chronic diarrhea.

In animals, EQ has been linked to:

  • immune deficiency syndrome;
  • spleen, stomach, and liver cancers;
  • and a host of allergies."

=========================

Best-selling pet care author, Ann N. Martin, reveals why foods labeled as 'chemical and preservative free' are actually chock-full of deadly poisons...

"Before these animal parts and by-product used for pet food are shipped from the slaughterhouse to the rendering plant, the by-product is "denatured."

This means that crude carbolic acid, cresylic disinfectant, or citronella, is sprayed on the product."

WARNING: Stop believing the lies told you by smiling dog breeders and vets representing the dog food industry... These multi-billion dollar companies are manipulating you! Let me show you how to escape.

Here's another dirty trick they pull on us and our dogs, it is shameful and deadly.. read on..

"Is Your Dog a Cannibal? Think Again.."

Prepare to be horrified..

Your dog's food contains dead pets, mostly cats and dogs!

Euthanized dogs about to be
processed into dog food

The city of Los Angeles alone, for example, sends some two hundred tons of euthanized cats and dogs to a pet food plant every month.

Not only is this immoral and disgusting... it's deadly.

The true horror is the drug used to kill these stray and abandoned animals, Sodium Pentobarbital, is not broken down by the manufacturing process and is still present in active form in your dog's food!!

And dog food companies don't stop with pets, your dog is also eating euthanized animals from zoos, animal control and putrid, decaying road kill.

All of these dead animals and other ghastly materials are processed until the portion left over for dog food production is a brown powder, which consists of ...

25% fecal matter - yes, 25% animal crap! [Author, Howard F. Lyman]

"Journalist Exposes Ugly Link Between Dog Food & Dead Pets"

Author and research investigator, Ann N. Martin discovers vets have known for years the dangers of feeding dogs euthanized animals but still it continues..

"This [using euthanized animals in dog food] can be problematic because sodium pentobarbital can withstand the heat from rendering.

For years, some veterinarians and animal advocates have known about the potential danger of sodium pentobarbital residue in commercial pet food, yet the danger has not been alleviated."

=========================

She continues on to reveal, not only is your dog eating dead pets, but he or she is also eating the collar, ID tags and plastic bags they are put in..

"It is not uncommon for thousands of euthanized dogs and cats to be delivered to rendering plants, daily, and thrown into the rendering vat—collars, I.D. tags, and plastic bags—to become part of this material called "meat meal."

WARNING: If you think your dog deserves better, it's your responsibility to act now before it becomes fatally ill. The solution is simple once you know how (and cheaper), that's what I'm going to show you.

That's a lot so far to take in, so..

"Let's Step Back For a Moment & Summarize.."

You've just discovered that these multi-billion companies, that bombard you

 
 
These are just a few of the
horrendous ingredients
in commercial dog food!

night-and-day with advertising intended to get your trust and make you believe they care about you and your dog....

.... are in fact taking your hard-earned money with one hand and passing you with the other, a deadly, nutritionally inadequate, dog-killing cocktail which includes:

  • Preservatives, known to inflict on our innocent dogs, horrendous diseases like multiple cancers, kidney failure, liver failure, immune system collapse and many more heartless ways to die.

  • The processed faeces (crap) of other dead animals.

  • Putrid road kill.

  • The decaying carcasses of dead dogs, cats, zoo animals and animal control

  • The deadly poison, Sodium Pentobarbital, used the kill the animals mentioned above by lethal injection.

  • Pet collars, flea collars, ID tags and plastic bags

No more!!!

If you continue to feed your dog exclusively on commercial pet food, you are dooming them to a painful, traumatic death - an innocent death! And now that you know the truth, you too can be held responsible if you do nothing about it.

Here's the solution..

"This Is What You Must Do, Starting Today, If You Want Your Dog To Live.."

If you want to save your dog from the horrific death suffered by hundreds of other dogs in your local area, probably in the last year alone, then you MUST follow these 3 steps:

Step 1 - Stop using commercial dog food as your dog's only or main source of food. This step is the most important and you should make the change in the next couple of days.

But you can't make this change unless you have a good alternative plan in place.

I can show you a proven alternative plan, it's much easier than you think and much cheaper than you're spending now. I'll get to that very soon.

Step 2 - Learn how to read commercial dog food labels.

I understand it's not practical for most people to never use commercial dog food ever again. Although not best case, you can use it sparingly for maybe a few meals during the week.

(If this is you, you need to hear about The Confidential Dog Food Report.. I mention it in Step 3 below)

The Grocery Manufacturers of America, the National Food Processors Association, and the Pet Food Institute join together and fight the FDA to keep the terms used as confusing and misleading as possible.

I learned how to decipher their deliberate 'double-talk' and I'll show you how to understand it too...again, that's coming soon.

By-The-Way --> I paid a professional field researcher $500.00 to gather confidential-intelligence on the 10 very best, ultra-healthy Commercial Dog Foods available in all of Nth America.

Using my strict dog food ratings criteria , she could only find 9 that met the super-high standards I set!

I call it my Guilt-Crusher because for the first time ever, I can feed my dog commercial dog food (one of those found on the list) with ZERO guilt or worry about what it's doing to her body!

And now also for the first time I'm willing to share it with other dog owners. I tell you more about that in a while..

 

Step 3 - Get some healthy, well-balanced dog food recipes and start feeding your dog home made food. I have a huge collection I'm happy to share with you.

It's very easy, if you know how to cook specifically for dogs. Just cook a large batch, freeze it and it can be eaten over several days.

 
 
 OR  If you don't have time and expertise to cook for your pets, and freeze it, and be sure the vitamin /minerals/ proteins/ carbohydrates / and fats are in the correct balance, then just order
"Life's Abundance" foods from www.healthypetnet.com/dawndalyce     FREE samples...but it's guaranteed, your pet will love it...so skip the tiny sample and just order the food !

 


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Last Updated: 08/16/08